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                <text>Council on Library and Information Resources Hidden Special Collections Grant</text>
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                <text>This collection includes various disparate materials including a scrapbook, sketches of the Noyes home in Canton (Guangzhou), China, and a travel itinerary. </text>
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                <text>The College of Wooster, Special Collections, &lt;a href="https://www.wooster.edu/academics/libraries/collections/collections/historical/noyes/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Noyes Collection&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>&lt;a href="https://rightsstatements.org/page/NoC-US/1.0/?language=en" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;NO COPYRIGHT - UNITED STATES&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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                <text>1831-1889</text>
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            <text>1&#13;
"Up the North River."&#13;
It was my good fortune in the latter part of November to&#13;
Enjoy a trip up the North River, in company with a few other&#13;
missionaries. There six of us, all told, Mr Piercy + Miss &#13;
Radcliffe with Mr + Mrs Whitehead, representing the English&#13;
Wesleyan Mission and my Brother and myself the American&#13;
Presbyterian. We had intended leaving Canton about noon&#13;
15th Nov but were delayed in making our preparations so that&#13;
it was nearly 4 P.M. before all was ready for giving the signal&#13;
to "push off". We called a few moments at the British Consulate&#13;
where Mr Piercy obtained a passport which by the treaty is&#13;
required of foreigners wishing to go more than a days journey&#13;
from Canton. While waiting here the French mail came in&#13;
and we were all delighted that the delay enabled us to receive&#13;
letters before leaving they are Ever welcome in this far off land.&#13;
The Evening shadows were gathering about us as our men at &#13;
last commenced "poling" up the river but we had so timed our&#13;
trip as to take advantage of November's moonlight and we knew &#13;
they would soon be scattered by the rising moon.&#13;
The boat we had Engaged for the trip called by the Chinese&#13;
a "Ho-tan" was manned by a crew of thirteen strong looking&#13;
natives who had agreed for the sum of $3.00 a day to row&#13;
push pole or drag us up the river as far as we pleased to go.&#13;
Our Ho-tan was perhaps 50 feet in length by 12 in width covered &#13;
+ divided by light partitions into several apartments  The first&#13;
was occupied by the Chinese assistants who went with us to aid&#13;
in preaching + distributing books. The next and largest of all was&#13;
&#13;
[--was--] parlor, study, and dining room, during the day and at&#13;
night was transformed into a sleeping room for the gentlemen&#13;
their mattresses being stowed away in the day time under the &#13;
floor or rather in the "hold" of our vessel. Behind this room&#13;
two smaller ones were appropriated to the use of the ladies of the &#13;
party, and in the stern was located our kitchen, pantry, storeroom &#13;
+c. Our rooms when furnished with table + chairs from our&#13;
houses began to have a home-like appearance and when we had&#13;
pushed our boxes trunks + provision baskets as far into the back-ground&#13;
as possible and brought forward two or three Easy chairs a &#13;
dining table + a little melodeon with books and papers we&#13;
looked at Each other and congratulated ourselves on having&#13;
so good a prospect of spending two or three weeks together&#13;
[u]comfortably[/u] as well as pleasantly. Our first stopping place&#13;
was to be Fatshan a large city about half the size of Canton&#13;
+ some twelve miles distant. WE had intended reaching&#13;
it before dark but were so late in starting that instead of&#13;
that it was nearly midnight long after I was asleep.&#13;
Making only a short stop here our boatmen pushed on until&#13;
2 A.M. and then anchored at a little village called "Sha Han"&#13;
or Land mouth the name being given it from the sand-bank&#13;
in the river here which renders it impossible for large boat to&#13;
pass this point excepting at high tide. Early in the&#13;
morning we heard one of the gentlemen shouting to the &#13;
boatmen to start again and about 1/2 past four we were&#13;
in motion. After breakfast all went on shore at a &#13;
village called Sin Tong. The natives showed the usual&#13;
curiosity to get a glimpse of foreigners and quite a crowd &#13;
soon gathered around us to whom Mr Whitehead spoke for a&#13;
&#13;
half hour or so standing at the foot of a large banyan tree.&#13;
They [--l--] received willingly the books and tracts given them +&#13;
one man who followed us to the boat said that he had heard&#13;
the gospel preached in Canton. Several women at work in&#13;
a field near by attracted our attention but as soon as Mrs Whitehead&#13;
+ I started to go to them they hid behind a straw-stack + when&#13;
they perceived that we were following them threw down their&#13;
bundles of rice and ran away across the fields. However in a &#13;
short time their curiosity overcame their fears and we soon found&#13;
ourselves the centre of a group of women who examined our&#13;
clothing with much interest asking many questions + making&#13;
various comments on our appearance. The women usually&#13;
seem kind but are very ignorant as the Chinese consider&#13;
it quite useless to give any attention to their Education.&#13;
Returning to our boat we soon passed Sai Nam a larger &#13;
place where we stopped only long Enough to distribute a &#13;
few books. Towards Evening we anchored at "Sam Shui" or &#13;
three waters the town deriving its name from its location as&#13;
here the North + West Rivers unite forming the Canton River.&#13;
Leaving our boat a little before sunset we went across the &#13;
fields to visit a pagoda a short distance from the river&#13;
and here we sat down on an old stone platform and watched&#13;
the sun set over the western hills. The country which near&#13;
Canton is so level + uninteresting now rises into hills&#13;
higher and higher in the distance + far away we could trace&#13;
their outlines clearly defined against the Evening sky reminding &#13;
us of the hills and mountains of our own native lands After&#13;
looking at the pagoda which is rather a noted one + in a &#13;
good state of preservation we continued our walk towards&#13;
&#13;
Sam Shui. It is a walled city and noted as being the only&#13;
place in the region that withstood the attacks of the &#13;
Tai Ping rebels the inhabitants ascribing their success in&#13;
holding the place to the powerful influence of the pagoda&#13;
just mentioned. The city is now in rather a dilapidated&#13;
condition and we did not go far inside the walls but&#13;
stopping a few moments in an open space near an old&#13;
Confucian temple were immediatly surrounded by a crowd&#13;
of men women + children, to whom we gave some tracts we&#13;
had brought with us. They said they had never heard&#13;
of Jesus and it seemed so sad to think that probably&#13;
many perhaps all of those about us would never learn&#13;
to know and love the Saviour's name. It was growing dark&#13;
when we left the city but a pleasant walk across the fields&#13;
by moonlight brought us to the river bank and here we&#13;
stopped a moment before going down to the boat to look&#13;
at the landscape before us. Just in front we could trace&#13;
for some distance the course of the West River and &#13;
away to the right that of the North their waters&#13;
mingling at our feet to flow together southward in the &#13;
Canton River whose windings we had followed to &#13;
this spot. Altogether it was a pretty picture with&#13;
its fitting background of high hills in the distance&#13;
and I could not help thinking that "[u]only man[/u] is vile."&#13;
When will the day come when form these valleys and &#13;
hillsides the songs of praise and thanksgiving shall&#13;
ascend to the one true God.&#13;
When we looked out the next morning Sam Shui&#13;
with its surroundings was far behind us for the boatmen&#13;
&#13;
2&#13;
had been at work an hour or two. A morning walk&#13;
gave us good appetites for our breakfast which we found&#13;
ready for us on our return. In the afternoon we stopped at&#13;
a large town called Lo-Pau long enough for the gentlemen&#13;
to distribute books and a little farther up the river all&#13;
went on shore for a walk. Coming to a large banyan tree&#13;
with one branch sweeping down nearly to the ground we&#13;
ladies seated ourselves thereon + enjoyed a swing bringing&#13;
reminiscences of childhoods sunny days. The boat&#13;
anchored for the night right in the middle of the stream&#13;
rather an unusual proceding as the Chinese generally stop&#13;
near some village or anchor beside a gun-boat to insure&#13;
protection from robbers. But our men were too tired to go&#13;
farther and the "Captain" assured us there was no fear +&#13;
set a watch in Chinese style by bringing out a large gong &#13;
which was hung up + struck at short intervals during the&#13;
night. We all sat on the top of the boat Enjoying the beautiful&#13;
moonlight for an hour or two before going to our rooms,&#13;
The next morning while the gentlemen were gone for&#13;
their morning walk we went on shore and as they were&#13;
late in returning had a long walk which we Enjoyed&#13;
although it was rather dusty. When they returned they&#13;
told us of a beautiful grove they had seen reminding&#13;
them of forests at home. We passed nothing of much&#13;
interest during the day and stopped for the night&#13;
near a village call Shek-kok. Soon after breakfast&#13;
next morning we all got off for a walk and found it&#13;
so cool and pleasant that we walked several miles before&#13;
we thought of returning to the boat. We find that we&#13;
&#13;
walk faster than the boat travels so that when we are&#13;
tired of walking we sit down + wait for them to come&#13;
up. We passed the Pleiades or seven star hills as the &#13;
Chinese call them although there are two or three more hills&#13;
in the range about as large as the seven that are counted.&#13;
They are not very high hills and of a reddish brown&#13;
color and quite bare as are most of the hills I have seen&#13;
in China. At 1/2 past four we Entered the Tsing Un Pass.&#13;
we had passed the city of the same name 14 miles below &#13;
Early in the morning. At the pass the river suddenly &#13;
becomes narrower until it is not more than 300 feet&#13;
in width and the water which at Canton is always a &#13;
muddy yellow here is perfectly clear and a most beautiful&#13;
green. The scenery is wild + grand far beyond anything&#13;
we had yet seen + sitting in the bow of the boat we&#13;
could get a fine view in passing and Enjoyed it much&#13;
the more that we see nothing like it in the vicinity of&#13;
Canton. From either side of the river mountains rise&#13;
sloping upward to the height of several thousand feet.&#13;
their sides partially covered with verdure so that they do not&#13;
have at all the painfully barren appearance which so many&#13;
of the hillsides of China present. We came to anchor a &#13;
little before dark at "Fa-loi-tsz" a little gem of a place.&#13;
Here is a Buddhist monastery with stone steps leading&#13;
up to it from the water's edge and farther up the&#13;
mountain side among the trees we could see another.&#13;
The Buddhist priests seem to have found + appropriated&#13;
to their own use all the prettiest spots in China&#13;
In the twilight we climbed up the mountain to the&#13;
&#13;
first one + going on a little farther came to a nice little&#13;
open space among the trees where we waited with Mr Piercy&#13;
^{while Mr Whitehead + Henry} went on to the second temple. The monks as usual seemed&#13;
friendly + willing to show us over their premises.&#13;
The next morning we wakened to find the North winde sweeping&#13;
down the pass with such force that the boat-men were afraid &#13;
to proceed and so we improved the opportunity of Enjoying a &#13;
mountain climb. Miss Radcliffe did not attempt to climb&#13;
much higher than the second temple but Mrs Whitehead&#13;
+ I were ambitious to see the top of the mountain. We found&#13;
it very rugged + steep however and before we reached the &#13;
summit we concluded to sit down and let the gentlemen &#13;
go on without us. We were not far from the top however +&#13;
were high Enough to get a fine view of the magnificent&#13;
scenery about us. The mountains on the opposite side of the&#13;
river looked more grandly beautiful as we looked across at &#13;
them from our elevation that when we looked upward&#13;
from their base. It was a beautiful panorama spread out&#13;
before us the mountains opposite with the sunshine lighting&#13;
up their ridges and the shadows sleeping in the intervening&#13;
ravines. the dark green river flowing at their feet far, far below&#13;
us and beyond over a lower range of hills away to the left&#13;
we could see a wide plain trace the course of the river&#13;
as it came winding down from the North. The Monastery&#13;
which as we looked at it from the boat seemed a long way up&#13;
the mountain now appeared as though built close by the &#13;
waters Edge + the men going hither and thither dwindled to&#13;
mere specks in the distance. We waited here an hour or two&#13;
Enjoying the beautiful view + meanwhile our thoughts + words&#13;
&#13;
straying away to England + America + visiting the loved ones&#13;
there. Presently we heard a shout and looking up saw&#13;
that the gentlemen had reached the mountain top. We &#13;
Exchanged signals + after a few minutes rest they began the&#13;
descent and were soon with us and all on our way down&#13;
the mountain. From the top we had discovered a path&#13;
which led us down in a much Easier way than we had&#13;
climbed up. We stopped to rest at the monastery and soon&#13;
a few of the inmates came near to have a talk with us one&#13;
old man bringing some spring water which was deliciously cool&#13;
and clear. One of the priests seemed inclined to be sociable &#13;
+ Mr Whitehead talked with him about the Way of Life + Henry&#13;
gave him a little tract "Come to JEsus" We could only hope that&#13;
he would think of what he had heard + study the little book&#13;
so Earnestly that it might indeed lead him to Jesus. &#13;
Rturning to our boat we found that although on the mountain&#13;
side it had seemed very warm + pleasant the wind was still blowing&#13;
fiercely on the river. Nevertheless our boatmen were now ready &#13;
to proceed + in a short time we were out of the Pass + found&#13;
the river widening + becoming more shallow losing its green&#13;
color, but still very clear so that sometimes we could see the&#13;
bottom. We anchored for the night near a very little village and&#13;
as it was Saturday night here we spent the Sabbath. In the &#13;
morning Mr Piercy + Miss Radcliffe with Mr + Mrs Whitehead took&#13;
some books and went to the village close by to talk with the people.&#13;
while Henry + I went to a smaller one a little father on.&#13;
A few people left their work in the fields to come + look at us&#13;
and ask questions. One of the men had been in Canton +&#13;
heard the gospel there. The women as usual could not&#13;
&#13;
read but they took a few books and perhaps some one&#13;
will read them to them + the good seed not be all lost.&#13;
As we returned to the boat we sat down for a few moments on&#13;
a hillside where all about were growing just such pines as&#13;
I have seen on the hills of New England. I enjoyed the&#13;
home feeling so much that in the afternoon Mrs Whitehead +&#13;
I took our books + went back again + spent 2 or 3 hours in the&#13;
same place that I had found so pleasant in the morning.&#13;
The gentlemen had gone across the river to visit some villages&#13;
on the other bank + we watched them cross the sandy plain&#13;
which here fills nearly half the bed of the river until they climbed &#13;
up the farther bank + disappeared in the forest of bamboos&#13;
which lined the opposite shore. We had climbed up the&#13;
hill-side and sat down only a few feet above the path&#13;
on the river bank and Every few minutes a long line of men&#13;
ten or a dozen wold pass dragging heavily laden boats&#13;
up the river just as in our country canal boats are drawn&#13;
by horses. They looked at us as they passed with the greatest&#13;
astonishment and no wonder I am sure they had never seen&#13;
foreigners sitting there before as they travelled over the well&#13;
worn path. Some of them expressed their surprise by the&#13;
usual "Hi-yah" + many of them indulged in various&#13;
comments on our appearance. After sitting here for some time&#13;
we saw the gentlemen come back but as the boat-men could not&#13;
get the boat close up to the sand our strong fellow got out in &#13;
the water + taking them one at a time on his back carried&#13;
them across and deposited them dry-shod in the boat. It was&#13;
nearly dark when we all got back to the boat feeling that we&#13;
had spent a pleasant Sabbath + certainly a more quiet&#13;
&#13;
one than would have been possible in Canton. In the evening&#13;
Mr Whitehead read a sermon and we had a short service&#13;
at the same hour that our friends in Canton were holding&#13;
theirs. Monday morning found us again on our way north.&#13;
The weather which when we left Canton + for several days&#13;
after was quite warm had changed so much that we could&#13;
hardly put on enough wrappings to make us comfortable.&#13;
Soon afer breakfast we went on shore and walked for several&#13;
hours along the bank the path often leading us up steep hills &#13;
and through groves of the tall slender bamboo. The country&#13;
here is far more thinly settled than farther down the river.&#13;
Near a little cluster of huts some of the natives came around&#13;
us to have a good look at the foreigners. One old woman told&#13;
me that when she was young she had been all the way to&#13;
Canton with a boat load of wood. To many of them&#13;
Canton seems like another world and it is astonishing to&#13;
see how contracted their ideas are. We found many beautiful &#13;
little nooks one where under the shadow of some majestic trees&#13;
there was a shrine dedicated to one of China's idols.&#13;
Thus it is Ever in China wherever Nature is most beautiful&#13;
we find her thus desecrated + turn where we may are met&#13;
by these sad tokens of the idolatry + degradation of this people.&#13;
At one place the path wound around the slippery rocks&#13;
many feet above the river into which a false step would&#13;
have precipitated us and a little farther on led us down&#13;
into a valley shut in by high hills which were so covered&#13;
with pine trees that I could almost fancy that  I was&#13;
looking upon New Hampshire's pine clad hills once more.&#13;
Our road finally came to an end among a mass of rocks&#13;
&#13;
at the end of a long reach of sand + here we sat down to&#13;
wait for our boatmen to come across + take us off in the&#13;
little boat belonging to our craft. A nice sail across the river &#13;
+ we were again on board. Towards evening we went out again&#13;
for a row in the little boat + Enjoyed the beautiful sunset.&#13;
WE had anchored for the night in a most delightful spot&#13;
shut in on Every side by majestic hills the river seemed like&#13;
a little lake Embosomed among the mountains. The sunset&#13;
was beautiful beyond imagination. the exquisite coloring of&#13;
the sky every shade reflected in the clear water below + the hills&#13;
+ mountains robed in richest softest hues from the Emerald&#13;
green of those that were near, varying through different shades&#13;
with the increasing distance + far, far away + towering over&#13;
all rose a majestic mountain robed in royal purple +&#13;
on its summit still lingering the last golden rays of the&#13;
setting sun. "A thing of beauty is a joy forever" + the memory &#13;
of that beautiful sunset will long be bright. Tuesday morning&#13;
although not Entirely rested from our long walk of the day&#13;
before we went on shore + walked for a mile or so along rather&#13;
a dusty path. Then as we begun to think of returning to &#13;
the boat we found to our surprise that it was ahead of us instead&#13;
of creeping along behind as usual. So the first thing to be done was&#13;
to overtake them which as the road now begun to mind over&#13;
rocks + along the sides of steep hills proved no easy matter.&#13;
We soon found as the river suddenly became more narrower&#13;
+ the banks on both sides to rise into high hills that we had&#13;
Entered the "Blind Boy's Pass." Now we had overtaken the boat&#13;
but we were so charmed with the wild beautiful scenery that we&#13;
Enjoyed walking + kept on a long the narrow path worn in the&#13;
&#13;
side of the precipitous rocks. Suddenly we noticed that from&#13;
the opposite rocks the shouts of the boat-men came back clear&#13;
and distinct, and then we knew that we had found the Echo&#13;
that sleeps among these hills of which we had heard before &#13;
but had forgotten its Existence until we heard its voice.&#13;
We were obliged to hurry on to keep up with the boat but&#13;
stopped a few moments to call to it delighted to find it &#13;
repeating Every word + tone clearly + accurately I called&#13;
out England America + Home wondering meanwhile if it&#13;
was not the first time it had ever said these words,&#13;
We would have loved to linger in the lovely spot if it&#13;
had been possible but could not so climbing down the &#13;
rocky bank we Entered our boat and from its windows&#13;
feasted our Eyes on the wild beauty of these grand rocky&#13;
hills. While on the hillside we noticed in the river far&#13;
below us some Chinamen catching fish with fishing cormorants&#13;
something we had only heard of before and at the risk&#13;
of making our boat stop to wait for us we stopped a few&#13;
minutes to watch them. The cormorants are large&#13;
black birds their wings cut so close that they cannot &#13;
fly and with iron rings around their throats to prevent&#13;
their swallowing the fish they have taken. We watched&#13;
one go down under the water and it seemed a long time&#13;
before he came up again but when he did it was with a fish in &#13;
his mouth. His master put out a long bamboo pole on which&#13;
the bird perched + he took it into the boat + took away the&#13;
fish it had just caught. The bird apparently accustomed&#13;
to such treatment seemed to accept it as a matter of course&#13;
+ standing on the side of the boat shook out his wings for&#13;
&#13;
4&#13;
another plunge We saw another one come up to the&#13;
surface with a very little fish which it managed to swallow&#13;
I should think they would soon learn to catch only those&#13;
small enough to go through the ring. Sometimes when one&#13;
gets a fish so large that it can not carry it alone another&#13;
of the birds will go to its assistance + my chinese teacher&#13;
says that ten or twelve have been known to carry a fish &#13;
two or three feet long. I imagine the story partakes more&#13;
of the marvellous than the true however. We several&#13;
objects in this pass to which the Chinese, from some&#13;
resemblance which they have discovered usually more&#13;
fancied than real, ^have given names. The "Stone General" is a large pillar&#13;
of stone which stands by itself in a commanding position&#13;
+ near by another rock has received the appellation of The&#13;
Stone Coffin. A little farther on in the face of the rock is&#13;
what is called The Blind Boy + from this the pass&#13;
takes its name. Three large hills side by side are&#13;
supposed to resemble the head and wings of a crow + at a&#13;
little distance the resemblance is quite distinct. We Enjoyed&#13;
our sail through this pass very much indeed + pushing on &#13;
a little beyond anchored for the night. When we rose the&#13;
next morning we found that the boatmen had been at work&#13;
some time and we were nearing "Ying Tak," the place&#13;
we had intended should be the terminus of our voyage &#13;
but as we had already given up the hope of getting back to&#13;
Canton within two weeks + none of us felt disposed to turn&#13;
back we concluded to go on. "Kun yam Cave" some distance &#13;
farther up the river was a point of interest to us all so&#13;
leaving our visit to the city of Ying-Tak until our return&#13;
&#13;
we pushed on as far as possible + dropped anchor for the night&#13;
at a village ^{a little} below the cave  Towards Evening we went for a walk&#13;
on the shore passed on our way a little temple + close by a large&#13;
tree whose trunk was entirely hollow and an opening on one side&#13;
large Enough to admit a grown person Easily. It seemed to&#13;
see the tree apparently healthy + flourishing but I have often&#13;
seen the banyan growing from a stone wall its roots&#13;
running all over it + creeping into Every crevice in search of&#13;
nourishment + I have been told that they draw their &#13;
sustenance largely from the air. We passed a number&#13;
of natives drawing wood in little carts of the rudest possible&#13;
construction with large thick wooden wheels some of them&#13;
far from round + boxes made of basket work Each drawn&#13;
by a bullock with a yoke on its neck just in front of the&#13;
large hump they have on their shoulders.&#13;
Thursday morning a bright clear day at 1/2 past eight&#13;
we reached Kun Yam Cave our destination. Taking a&#13;
cup of tea + some crackers we left our breakfast to wait&#13;
our return + went off in a small boat to visit the cave,&#13;
dedicated as its name indicates to "Kun Yam" a favorite&#13;
goddess of the Chinese the goddess of Mercy. The rock as we&#13;
came up the river seemed to stand out by itself rising&#13;
perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of 500&#13;
feet The Entrance of the cave is at the foot of the rock + we&#13;
stepped from our boat to the stone platform which leads&#13;
to it. Stone steps are cut in the side of the rock + at&#13;
the head of the first flight we found two our three priests&#13;
in little rooms as dark + dirty as their abodes usually&#13;
are. A few more flights of steps turning back + winding&#13;
&#13;
around led us back to the front of the rock + another room&#13;
much higher + directly over the first one visited. From the&#13;
window we looked out on a beautiful landscape the winding&#13;
river below us + on the opposite bank a plain diversified by&#13;
high hills rising abruptly + here + there a clump of trees the&#13;
bright morning sun lighting up the picture Without a scene&#13;
of beauty within what a sad contrast. A dirty little room&#13;
tenanted by dirty priests a senseless gilded idol of Kun Yam&#13;
before which men also as stupid were placing offerings&#13;
of fish fowl rice + fruit + burning incense sticks. This was&#13;
the first cave I had ever visited and I could not help thinking&#13;
of [--others--] caves in other lands + former days that have been the&#13;
hiding places of men of whom the earth was not worthy, + I&#13;
wondered if these walls would ever Echo back the praises of&#13;
the Almighty God as they have for so many years the&#13;
senseless mummeries of these deluded creatures. It was with&#13;
sad feelings that I turned away from this mountain&#13;
cave + returning to our boat went a little farther up the &#13;
stream to visit another temple. This was built on a&#13;
rock or shelf projecting from the mountain side + hundreds&#13;
of feet above immense rocks jutting from the mountain&#13;
seemed ready at any moment to fall upon it. Perhaps &#13;
for this reason it has been deserted at any rate we saw &#13;
no one there + everything seemed in a dilapidated&#13;
condition. In one room however there was an idol but&#13;
evidently neglected, + in another place we saw a small&#13;
one enclosed in a glass case. We found on the wall here&#13;
written with lead pencil the names of a party of five ^from Canton was&#13;
four years before had visited this place + beside theirs we&#13;
&#13;
recorded our names. After we had seen everything we still&#13;
lingered [illegible] to leave for when we returned to the boat&#13;
we must turn our faces southward and we had Enjoyed &#13;
the days so much in coming up the river that it brought&#13;
a feeling of sadness to think that they were ended.&#13;
Wondering whether we should ever look upon these rocks&#13;
again we turned away + descending the steps that led to&#13;
our boat in a few minutes we were again on board +&#13;
bound for Canton. The change from the flat level country&#13;
around Canton to the beautiful scenery through which&#13;
we had been passing had been such a pleas[--ant--]ure + we&#13;
had enjoyed it so thoroughly that we hardly felt&#13;
ready to return to the busy dusty city. But as we&#13;
wished to reach Ying Tak before dark it was time to be on&#13;
our way so with a farewell glance at Kau Yam Shan + the&#13;
scenery it overlooks we turned our thoughts + faces southward.&#13;
We reached Ying Tak 4.P.M. + the gentleman went&#13;
on shore taking books with them + soon had a crowd &#13;
around who bought the books so eagerly that they had to&#13;
return again + again for a fresh supply. A little before dusk&#13;
they came for us to go with them for a walk. An immense&#13;
crowd had gathered on the shore hoping to catch a glimpse &#13;
of us + when we came out their delight seemed to know&#13;
no bounds. They ran before us shouting + screaming +&#13;
crowding up as closely as possible in order to get a better&#13;
view of their strange visitors. As we went on the noise&#13;
+ confusion increased + from every door new faces issued &#13;
all striving to get a sight of the strangers. We hoped&#13;
that their curiosity would soon be satisfied but found&#13;
&#13;
5&#13;
that to be a vain hope the crowd becoming larger + larger.&#13;
They seemed however to be only curious not unfriendly&#13;
+ it was only occasionally that we heard the epithet&#13;
"foreign devil" by which foreigners are so often designated&#13;
in China. We went first to the city wall but coming to a &#13;
gate that was barred + after trying in vain to get some &#13;
one to open it we concluded that they wanted to keep us there&#13;
so as to have a good look at us + so thought it would be best&#13;
to beat a retreat. Getting outside the wall we walked as &#13;
fast as possible through the crowd to a high hill near&#13;
the city from whose summit we had a fine view of the city &#13;
+ its surroundings. The location of the city is beautiful,&#13;
on one side the river bordered by cultivated fields + on&#13;
the other a valley shut in by hills; from where we stood&#13;
four distinct ranges being plainly visible. Groves of&#13;
beautiful trees grow luxuriantly all over the valley + two&#13;
charming little lakes reflected the crimson splendors&#13;
of the setting sun, giving variety + beauty to the scene.&#13;
But mingled with the pleasure that the beautiful ever gives&#13;
to us was the sad thought that this lovely spot is the dwelling&#13;
place of thousands who are sunk in the depths of ignorance&#13;
+ superstition, Swarming all about we could not look&#13;
upon them + for a moment forget that to them the gospel message&#13;
has never yet been delivered. There is now an idol temple&#13;
at the top of the hill + another halfway down would&#13;
that we might hope that they will soon be removed +&#13;
replaced by a temple dedicated to the worship of the &#13;
one true God. We soon left this place for it was nearly dark&#13;
+ the walk to our boat through the dust[--y--] with the crowd&#13;
&#13;
which seemed determined to escort us was something formidable&#13;
A little boy who with the hope of receiving a few cash had undertaken&#13;
to guide us exerted himself in a manner worthy of a&#13;
veteran policeman to keep the crowd in order + at a&#13;
respectful distance. In going down the hill he charged &#13;
us to be very careful as the stones were slippery + we might&#13;
full + to show his meaning tumbled down himself two&#13;
or three times a practical illustration which amazed us&#13;
somewhat. As we passed along the streets with the crowd&#13;
following the doors + windows lined with curious faces&#13;
dogs barking + chickens cackling we felt that our visit&#13;
was causing more of a commotion in the city of Ying Tak&#13;
than we could have wished. We were glad to get back &#13;
to our boat + close the doors between ourselves + the noisy&#13;
crowd. Soon after we came back an official called I &#13;
suppose to ascertain the object of our visit. We imagined&#13;
that he was very well pleased to learn that we intended&#13;
leaving early the next morning + he soon took his&#13;
departure. When we wakened the next morning Ying Tak&#13;
was far behind us + we were nearing the Pik Lok Tunnel&#13;
the next point of interest on our way. The tunnel or cave&#13;
is about a mile + a half from the river so we had the&#13;
prospect of a morning walk of three miles. The sun&#13;
was just above the eastern hills when we left the boat&#13;
+ the fresh morning air the dew still on the grass the&#13;
beautiful plain across which our pathway led the&#13;
grand rocky hills shutting it in on every side Each&#13;
lent an additional charm + reminded us of morning&#13;
rambles in other lands. We crossed two little streams on &#13;
&#13;
stepping stones + following the narrow pathway past&#13;
little patches of buckwheat sweet potatoes + ground&#13;
nuts clumps of bamboos here + there a rude hut +&#13;
a little distance to the right a stone quarry + just &#13;
beyond came in sight of the opening in the rock&#13;
which forms the entrance of the Pik Lok or Precious&#13;
Stone cave. When we reached the place where we&#13;
first caught a glimpse of the interior of the cave&#13;
an involuntary exclamation of surprise + delight&#13;
came from our lips. From the roof of the cave large &#13;
stalactites depended in clusters reflected in the water&#13;
of the little lake below clear as crystal + reflecting&#13;
from its glassy surface the sunlight which entered at the&#13;
back of the cave lighting up the dark brown stones &#13;
partially covered with ferns + mosses of the most beautiful&#13;
green. We followed a narrow road leading beside the lake&#13;
around the rocks + coming out on the other side into a &#13;
quiet little valley. A party of laborers passed us here&#13;
on the way to their work their carts drawn by the water open &#13;
most ungainly looking animals of a dirty grey color, the&#13;
driver sitting upon the back of his ox + guiding, him by a &#13;
cord passing through his nostrils. Reentering the cave&#13;
we stood together + sung Forever with the Lord + Praise God&#13;
from whom all blessings flow. It seemed a grand cathedral&#13;
a temple not made with hands fitting for the worship of &#13;
the Creator of all. Here as every where we found the shrines&#13;
+ burning incense sticks the inevitable traces of idol&#13;
worship. An old priest told us that formerly there was&#13;
a temple inside the cave but it had fallen into ruins&#13;
&#13;
and been removed, Now however they are making&#13;
preparations for building a new one. We would gladly&#13;
have lingered longer in this lovely spot but [--as--] our day,&#13;
journey was only begun + as we hoped to be a long&#13;
way down the river before night we had no time to&#13;
lose. Going down stream we found that we made much&#13;
better progress than working up against the current.&#13;
We left the Pik Lok Cave a little after 10 and an hour's&#13;
sail brought us to the Blind Boys Pass which we had&#13;
enjoyed so much on our way up a few days before.&#13;
We bestowed a passing glance upon the Stone General&#13;
standing in solitary grandeur .looked again for the &#13;
Blind Boys face + the hawk with its wings still outstretched&#13;
Exchanged a few parting words with the echo + at 1/2 past&#13;
12 the river began ^to widen + we knew that the Blind Boys Pass&#13;
with all its wild rocky scenery was behind us.&#13;
Towards evening we passed through the Censer Pass&#13;
a smaller one + anchored at 1/2 past six at the&#13;
little village of Wong Shek. When we looked out the&#13;
next morning we were just passing the place where&#13;
we had spent the preceding Sabbath. Two hours sail &#13;
brought us to the Tsing Un Pass + a little after ten&#13;
we reached the temple of Fa Loi Tsz. Stopping here a&#13;
little while to get a supply of the clear spring water&#13;
we climbed up the hill + visited the waterfall&#13;
near it + enjoyed again the beautiful view which&#13;
had so charmed us a week before. After a short stay &#13;
we left the temple and light breeze soon carried us&#13;
out of the pass + at 1/2 past two we reached Tsing Un city.&#13;
&#13;
6&#13;
We only stopped here long [--for we were--] Enough to &#13;
distribute a few books as were anxious to get near&#13;
some large place to spend the Sabbath. The men &#13;
worked a little later than usual + we anchored a &#13;
little after dark near a village. We spent a quiet&#13;
Sabbath the gentlemen going to all the villages near &#13;
preaching + distributing books. Towards evening we&#13;
went up to a pagoda  a little ways from our anchorage&#13;
It was on quite a high hill + from its top we could see&#13;
a long distance. The hill-sides were all terraced + the [illegible]&#13;
at our feet looked like a garden. Sitting down on the &#13;
grass we sung the Missionary hymn + several others.&#13;
This pagoda is very well built the legend connected&#13;
with it is that the builder agreed to build it for a certain&#13;
sum but finding that he could not make it strong + &#13;
substantial for that expended considerable more thus&#13;
involving himself in debt + as his employers refused to&#13;
pay any more than they had at first agreed when the&#13;
pagoda was finished he mounted to the topmost story +&#13;
throwing himself from its top was dashed in pieces.&#13;
Doubtless like most of the Chinese legends there is no&#13;
foundation whatever for the story in fact.&#13;
The twilight here is very short + before we were aware&#13;
it had grown so dark that when we turned to retrace&#13;
our steps it was with difficulty that we could find the&#13;
way + the hillside which we had found steep + slippery&#13;
when coming up now seemed far more so. When we&#13;
reached the place where we expected to find our boat waiting &#13;
for us we saw them just coming with lanterns. They&#13;
&#13;
said they had been over once before + not seeing us&#13;
feared that we had fallen in with robbers or tigers +&#13;
so they had gone back for more men with lanterns&#13;
swords spears + knives. They really seemed quite&#13;
concerned for us + rejoiced to see us back safely &#13;
+ although we felt sure their fears were needless we felt&#13;
touched by the concern they felt + expressed for our&#13;
welfare. The next morning a good North wind&#13;
filling our sails carried us rapidly down the river&#13;
towards Canton. We made no stop during the day&#13;
as we were anxious to get back to Canton the next day.&#13;
Tuesday morning found us again at Fatshan where&#13;
we stopped for an hour or two A few hours more and &#13;
we were again at Canton. We all felt much benefited by&#13;
the change + that we were coming back to our work with&#13;
renewed vigor + bringing many pleasant recollections&#13;
of the two weeks we had spent so happily together.&#13;
We hope too that the good seed sown by the wayside may&#13;
spring up + bring forth fruit + that the books +&#13;
tracts which have been scattered in so many places&#13;
may at least some of them be carefully read + though &#13;
silent prove effectual of the way of Life--</text>
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            <text>Journal</text>
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        <element elementId="50">
          <name>Title</name>
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            <elementText elementTextId="15549">
              <text>"Up the North River"</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
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        <element elementId="49">
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            <elementText elementTextId="15550">
              <text>River boats; Furniture; Cities and towns; Tracts; Pleiades; Buddhist monasteries; Cormorants; Caves</text>
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            <elementText elementTextId="15551">
              <text>Harriet travels along the North River in November on a boat called a "Ho-tan" with Mr. Piercy, Miss Radcliffe, and the Whiteheads from the English Wesleyan Mission. They furnished their cabins from their houses. Harriet details their travels, discussing how they handed out books and tracts in small towns. They also handed out tracts at a Confucian temple. During their journey, they paid no heed to potential pirates. They anchored by a Buddhist monastery, where they climbed to a number of temples for a better view. Mr. Whitehead gave a Buddhist priest a tract. They passed through the countryside where natural features were of spiritual significance, and eventually took Blind Boy's Pass. They saw natives fishing with domesticated cormorants. After enjoying the scenery of Kau Yam Shan, they proceeded to Ying-Tak, where they met some opposition as foreigners.  A favorable wind carried them to Fatshan and the rest of the way to Canton. </text>
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            <elementText elementTextId="15552">
              <text>Noyes, Harriet Newell</text>
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              <text>Loose, The College of Wooster, Special Collections, &lt;a href="https://www.wooster.edu/academics/libraries/collections/collections/historical/noyes/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Noyes Collection&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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              <text>n. d.</text>
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              <text>Council on Library and Information Resources Hidden Special Collections Grant</text>
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          <name>Rights</name>
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            <elementText elementTextId="15557">
              <text>&lt;a href="http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/NoC-US/1.0/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;NO COPYRIGHT - UNITED STATES&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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              <text>PDF</text>
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          <name>Language</name>
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            <elementText elementTextId="15559">
              <text>eng (English)</text>
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              <text>&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1816682/bei-jiang.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Bei Jiang&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1809858/guangzhou.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Guangzhou&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1811103/foshan.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Foshan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/6940852/shahan.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Shahan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1789273/sanshui.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Sanshui&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1818953/sham-shui-po.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Sam Shui Po&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1793266/tan-jiang.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Tan Jiang&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1734586/taiping.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Taiping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/1819142/pak-shek-kok.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;Pak Shek Kok&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/6269131/england.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;England&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.geonames.org/6252001/united-states.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener"&gt;United States&lt;/a&gt;</text>
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      <name>boats</name>
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      <name>Buddhism</name>
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      <name>Confucianism</name>
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